Tying the Knot (neck ties and kilts)

Tying the Knot (without getting hitched!)

originally published in The Scottish Banner, June 2009

This month’s column is not about weddings (though perhaps you might find it useful advise for the next one you will be attending). No, it’s about tying a different kind of knot – a neck tie!

One question that gentlemen who are starting their foray into kilt wearing ask frequently is “what kind of tie should I wear with my kilt?” The short answer is that there is no specific style of “kilt tie” that one must wear. Generally speaking, you are free to wear any style of tie you would otherwise. However, there are some special considerations you might want to be aware of when choosing a tie to wear with your kilt.

Let us first address the issue of the tartan tie. People are often tempted to wear a neck tie in the same tartan as their kilt. While there are no hard and fast rule against this most traditional minded kilt wearers will eschew this fashion. People also will ask about the propriety of wearing a tie of a different tartan than the kilt. The same issues apply here. While there are no rules against this, one does have to consider fashion sense.

To many, the look of a tartan tie worn with a tartan kilt is simply a bit much. A solid colored tie presents a much cleaner and more dignified look. That being said, should you choose to wear a tartan neck tie, be aware of the following considerations. If you are wearing a tie in the same tartan as the kilt, try if at all possible to have them made from cloth from the same woolen mill. Different tartan mills will have their own color palettes and the same tartan from two different mills may not match exactly. When worn together, such as in a kilt and tie, any color differences will become apparent.

It is not necessary to match the sett size in the kilt and tie. Generally, the heavier weight cloth that is used in kilt making will have a larger sett repeat than the lighter weight cloth used in making ties, scarves and the like. A small sett looks better in these smaller items, when only a narrow portion of the tartan is seen. So long as the colors match, having a smaller sett shown on your tie is perfectly acceptable.

If you choose to wear a different tartan tie with your kilt, use your eye and ask yourself whether the two different patterns look good together. One trick is to wear a waistcoat (vest) in a solid color. This separates the kilt from the tie, and minimizes the display of tartan at the neck. By doing this, it is possible to combine two tartans that otherwise might not work well together.

That being said, most people will agree that a nice solid colored tie is preferable to wear with the kilt. The trick can be finding solid ties these days! Walk into most menswear stores and you’ll find a menagerie of patterned ties, but very few, if any solids. One place you might not think to look for solid ties is your Highland Dress supplier. Many of the same woolen mills that produce Scotland’s tartan cloth also produce a range of solid colors meant to compliment their tartans. Most Highland Dress retailers will be able to offer neck ties made from this cloth.

You can choose a tie in one of the colors of your tartan to bring emphasis to that particular color. Add a set of garters in the same color, and the whole outfit starts to come together.

This is not to say that a patterned tie will not work at all with the kilt. There are any number of patterns that you’ll find add texture and tone to your Highland outfit. One very traditional motif that is still popular is the regimental, school or club tie. These ties, made with a repeating series of diagonal stripes, are worn to denote affiliation with a military regiment, school, or other organization. Perhaps due to the influence of the Highland Regiments, this style of tie is very popular with a kilt.

If one has an actual affiliation with a regiment or school, it is perfectly acceptable to wear that particular tie, regardless of whether the colors match the colors of the kilt. Otherwise, look for colors that match. This style of tie is popular enough that you are likely to see diagonal striped ties sold in most places men’s ties are available. Keep your eye open and you might be lucky enough to find one that matches the colors of your kilt.

Once upon a time I would occasionally see such striped ties offered that were actually made from the tartan pattern (but woven only in one direction to make stripes, not tartan). One would wear a kilt in the Johnstone clan tartan (for example) and a tie made in “Johnstone” stripes. The look was very well put together. I haven’t seen these ties offered in quite a while, however.

Keep your eye out for other ties that might go well with your kilt. Don’t be afraid of patterns. Just try to develop a sense for what patterns go well together. Look for common colors that might tie (no pun intended) the kilt and neck tie together. One will occasionally see ties with small clan crests embroidered on them, or small stags heads, salmon, or some other sporting motif. These ties generally work very well with Highland Dress.

I own a tie with a heraldic motif that is covered in emblazoned shields taken from a medieval heraldic manuscript. The parchment color in the background of the tie tones well with a thin muted gold stripe in a certain kilt of mine, and I wear the two together often. It always gets compliments – and I was affirmed in my decision one day when I came across a photograph of heraldic artist Romily Squire wearing the exact same tie!

So be open minded when you are choosing a tie to wear with your kilt. Remember there are no rules here beyond the rules of fashion. Selecting a tie to match your kilt may be a bit more complicated than choosing a tie to wear with trousers, but not much more so. Trust in your eye, don’t be afraid of patterns, and when in doubt, rely on a good solid colored tie that you know will present a clean and well put together look.

PHOTO: The author wearing a "regimental stripe" style tie in colors to tone with the tartan of his kilt.