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THE STEWART TARTANS
©2007 Matthew A. C.
Newsome, GTS, FSA Scot.
published in the Scottish Banner, July
2007
It
happens all the time. Someone comes into the Scottish Tartans Museum, or
approaches our information tent at a Highland Games, and wants to see their
tartan. “My name is Stewart” they say. A very Scottish name! So I direct
them to the swatch books, and they start to flip through the dozen or so
Stewart tartans. Then the inevitable question – “Which one is mine?”
Many people are under the impression that there
is a one to one correspondence of tartan to clan. A tartan can only represent
one clan, and a clan should only have one tartan. Such is not the case,
however. We have dealt in this column before with tartans that represent more
than one entity. And it should come as no surprise that most (but not all)
clans have multiple tartans.
Here I am not referring to the so-called
ancient, modern, weathered, muted or reproduction color schemes. These do not
actually refer to different tartans, but rather to the same tartan produced in
different hues. I’m speaking of clans that truly have a multiplicity of
different tartan designs.
Usually, the answer to the question, “Which one
is mine?” is, “They all are!” For instance, there are three MacFarlane
tartans: the standard one is red, there is a hunting tartan which is green,
and a black and white tartan. All three are MacFarlane tartans, and any would
be a good choice to represent the clan.
But then there are clans that seem to have an
inordinate number to select from. Campbell has a few, MacDonald has plenty,
and the Stewarts truly have no shortage of tartan designs. This month I’d
like to focus on the Stewart tartans and attempt to give some guidance to
those attempting to select a particular one to wear.
To begin with, let’s talk about the spelling of
the name. Is it Stewart or Stuart? The answer is both! The Stewart spelling
is the older of the two, but “Stuart” became popular after Mary, Queen of
Scots. Brought up in France, she spelled her name “Stuart,” due to their being
no “w” in the French language. For the most part the two spellings can be
seen as equivalent.
Many who today spell their name Stuart choose
to wear the Stuart of Bute tartan, for the simple reason that the tartan is
labeled with their spelling of the name. This is because the Marquis of Bute
has typically used the “Stuart” spelling. However, it would be wrong to
suggest that all Stuarts are related to this branch of the clan. The reality
is that one will find both Stewarts and Stuarts all across Scotland.
The Stuart of Bute tartan is an example of what
may be described as a “branch” tartan. As a general rule of thumb, any tartan
that uses “of” in the name refers to a particular branch of the clan or
family. Those that count their ancestry as being from a specific branch may
opt to wear that tartan to identify with the particular family. Examples
within the Stewart clan would be Stewart of Athol, Stewart of Appin, Stewart
of Galloway, Stewart of Fingask, and others.
The trouble is that most people currently
researching their ancestry will have no idea which, if any, particular group
of Stewarts they may descend from. Should this keep them from wearing a
tartan? Of course not. But they may feel more comfortable wearing a tartan
that represents the Stewarts as a whole, rather than a particular branch of
the clan. So the question remains – which tartan should one wear?
The most popular Stewart tartan is undoubtedly
the Royal Stewart. There are many variations on this design, it being popular
with the fashion industry for quite some time. Opinions regarding the proper
use of this tartan run strong! Some are of the opinion that its use should be
restricted only to the Royal Family, period. Others believe that, just as a
clansman wears the tartan of his chief, any subject of the British Crown can
wear the Royal tartan. This would make it a de facto generic tartan. I
know one gentleman who firmly believes that only men in the Royal Family can
wear this tartan in a kilt, but that it is quite permissible for the general
public to wear it in any other form.
The reality is that even if use of the tartan
were at one time meant to be restricted, it certainly isn’t so now. The Royal
Stewart tartan is now a common sight in the kilt hire industry, in children’s
Scottish attire, men’s flannel shirts, pajamas, wrapping paper, greeting
cards, and shortbread tins! Its widespread use has turned it into a universal
tartan in practice, if not intent.
Many other popular Stewart tartans are
variations on the Royal Stewart. The Dress Stewart is the Royal with the red
ground changed to white. The Black Stewart uses a black ground. (Change the
background to blue, and you have the Macbeth tartan!). Sometimes other
elements are added. For example, the Victoria Stewart tartan is the Dress
Stewart with a red line added in the center of the white.
The Hunting Stewart is also very popular. Many
are surprised, however, to learn that this is not a Stewart clan tartan at
all! It has always been regarded as a general tartan, and before the modern
proliferation of fashion tartans, was traditionally one of the few setts
recommended for those without a tartan of their own. Why this Stewart tartan
should be considered universal is a mystery. Due to its name, it is very
common among those of Stewart ancestry, but it continues to also be popular
among those with no tartan of their own.
So what tartan would I recommend to those
Stewarts who neither want to wear a particular branch tartan, nor a general
one? The Old Stewart tartan is the best choice. The Scottish Tartans
Authority gives a “pre-1745” date for this tartan, making it a truly old
design. Their notes indicate that it “is often regarded as the ‘Clan’ tartan
as distinct from the ‘Royal,’” making it the perfect choice for those who want
to wear a traditional tartan for the Stewart clan. Since it’s a tartan for
the entire clan, you don’t have to know what (if any) branch you belong to,
and no one will confuse it with a general use tartan.
The fact that it’s a very traditional and
attractive tartan is an added bonus! So when Stewarts ask me which tartan they
should wear, the Old Stewart is always my first recommendation. However, if
you prefer one of the other many Stewart tartans, feel free to wear one of
them – or two or three. The great thing about having so many tartans is it
gives you an excuse to wear more kilts. And that’s never a bad thing!
