The Most Interesting Tartans
You’ve Likely Never Heard Of!
©2009 Matthew A. C. Newsome, FSA Scot,
GTS
We’ve all heard of MacDonald,
MacGregor, Campbell and Royal Stewart. We may even be able to
identify on sight many of the more common clan tartans. But with
entries in the International Tartan Index (maintained by the
Scottish Tartans Authority) numbering well above seven thousand,
there are tartans on record that you are not likely to see at your
next Highland Games or St. Andrews Society meeting.
Some of these are artifact tartans
with some very interesting history behind them. One example is
the Glenaladale tartan. This historic tartan was found on Prince
Edward Island, Canada, in 1968 by Ranald L. MacDonald. It
belonged, at the time, to an elderly priest who was reportedly a
descendant of Major Alexander MacDonald of Glenaladale, a
supporter of Bonnie Prince Charlie. Major MacDonald migrated to
Canada in 1772, supposedly bringing this plaid with him.
Another artifact tartan is the
Strathspey tartan. The original sample, dated to 1794 or 1795, is
said to have come from the back of a waistcoat worn by an officer
of the Strathspey Fencibles Regiment, raised by Sir James Grant.
The design is very similar to the Black Watch (worn as a hunting
tartan by the Clan Grant, among others). Whereas the Black Watch
tartan has two and four black lines alternating in every blue
field, the Strathspey has three black lines on every blue. In
1984 the Royal Scottish Country Dance Society officially
recommended this tartan for wear by any dancer with no clan
affiliation.
Not every artifact tartan on record
comes from Scotland, however. The weaving of tartan cloth is not
unique to Scotland, or even to the British Isles. Examples of
tartan cloth can be found across the globe.
How many of us have heard of the
Kazakhstan tartan? According to the Scottish Tartans Authority,
cloth in this blue, black and yellow pattern was found buried with
mummies found in the Kazakhstan region dating to 2000 BC! This
makes it slightly older than the Hallstatt tartan (named for the
Austrian village), dating to between 1200 and 400 BC, and
documented by Elizabeth Wayland Barber in The Mummies of
Urumchi (1999).
We don’t need to go back quite that
far in time to find evidence of tartan cloth in Europe, though.
In 1983 several figures wearing Highland dress were discovered
painted in murals on the walls of Loevenstien Castle in the
Netherlands. Though the castle itself dates to 1368, these
figures were most likely painted by a Scottish officer of the
garrison, possibly William MacKay, who died between 1750 and
1753. Three tartans are illustrated. These have since been
reconstructed by Dutch weavers and do not resemble any other
tartans on record.
Some rare and unusual tartans, of more
recent history, can be better documented. When one thinks of
Scottish tartan, one does not immediately think of Malaysia, but
around 1880 Sultan Abu Bakar of Johor paid a visit to Queen
Victoria. He was presented at that time with a length of tartan,
woven by Thomas Gordon & Sons of Glasgow. A regimental tartan for
Johor (Johore) was woven at a later date by Andersons of Edinburgh
(now Kinloch Anderson).
But a tartan certainly doesn’t have to
be old to be rare or obscure. How many of the following
relatively recent designs have you seen at your local Scottish
gatherings?
There is the blue, black and white
Argentina tartan, designed in 1995 by Edward McRae, of the St.
Andrews Society of the River Plate. The design is based on the
Robertson tartan, in honor of John and William Parish Robertson,
leaders of the 1825 Monte Grande settlement, which was home to
about 225 Scottish immigrants. The colors are taken from the
Argentinian flag.
What of the Aubigny (aka “Auld
Alliance”) tartan? This design was created in 1992 by Polly
Wittering of the House of Edgar. The French town of
Aubingy-sur-Nere is “twinned” with the Scottish town of Haddington
and actively promotes its Scottish connections. The Aubigny
tartan to based upon the Stewart of Atholl tartan. Aubigny is
sometimes referred to as La Cité des Stuarts, because in
1423 the town was granted to Sir John Stuart, a Scottish military
commander who assisted the French against the English during the
Hundred Years War.
The Nova Scotia tartan is a very
popular design, especially in that Canadian Province, but how many
are aware that the town of Sydney, in Nova Scotia, has its own
tartan? The very unusual colors of this tartan were chosen for
their significance to the important steel industry there. Gray
represents the steel plant; orange the red-hot ingots; black the
coal in the furnace; and off-white represents the limestone used
in the production process.
Many district tartans in the United
States are popular, including the New York City tartan. But less
well known are the Manhattan tartans, designed in 1999 by artists
J. Morgan Puett and Suzanne Bocanegra. One, called the “Manhattan
Financial” tartan was woven with a silvery white thread to give a
tinsel effect. The other, called “Manhattan Ethnic,” was woven in
various shades of pinks, tans and browns to represent the
multitude of ethnic races found in Manhattan.
Unfortunately, space does not allow us
to include an image for each of the interesting tartans mentioned
above, but all of these can be found by browsing the International
Tartan Index. The interested reader is encouraged to go online
and do a little exploring. See what other kinds of unusual or
unheard of tartans you might discover!