Getting Started -- So You've Just Bought Your First Kilt!

GETTING STARTED

SO YOU’VE JUST BOUGHT YOUR FIRST KILT!

published in the Scottish Banner, May 2006

So you’ve just bought your first kilt. Congratulations! But what’s that? You haven’t thought of accessories yet? Well now is the time! Join us this month as we take a look at the bare essentials of Highland dress – what you really need to wear with your kilt.

To begin with, I will not be addressing those who wear the kilt as a part of a uniform. Obviously if the kilt is part of a mandatory dress code that you follow as a member of an organization, there will be things that you are required to wear with it. Nor do I have in mind the gent that has specifically purchased his kilt to wear to a formal event, such as a wedding. In those cases there will be dress considerations particular to the venue that you will need to bear in mind.

I write this month to the more casual kilt wearer, which in my experience makes up the majority of those ordering their first kilt. You may plan to wear the kilt to Highland Games and other outdoor festivals, concerts, parties, and the occasional walk about. Do you need to purchase a kilt jacket, ghillie brogues, fly plaid, dirk and all that? Absolutely not. Most of the men whom I help outfit have already spent what they feel to be a considerable sum of money on the kilt, and do not look forward to the prospect of laying down as much again (if not more) on various accoutrements to wear with it.

So with the casual kilt wearer in mind, what do you really need to wear with your kilt? I will outline for you here just the barest of necessities. You may certainly feel free to add to this list as you see fit.

To begin with, you really do need a sporran. Some “contemporary” kilts aside, traditional Scottish kilts do not have pockets. You simply need a place to keep your wallet and keys, if nothing else. The word “sporran” is Gaelic for “pouch” and for casual wear, that is all it has to be. No need to invest in an expensive fur-front, silver-cantled work of art just for daily wear. Get one for formal events, by all means, but you’ll find a simple leather bag-style sporran to be much more economic and functional for common use.

A brief note about the color of leather; tradition has it that brown leather be used for day wear and black leather reserved for evening or formal wear. By and large this is a good rule of thumb. However I sometimes suggest that new kilt wearers, if they want to stretch their money, purchase a simple bag-style sporran in black leather. Because it is a simple style, it will work for casual wear. But being black, it will also match a formal jacket should you purchase or hire one. If this is not a concern, though, brown leather is the usual choice for daily wear.

Once you have your sporran, you’ll need something to hang your sporran from. Most sporrans these days are sold with a chain belt, with a black leather strap and buckle that allows for size adjustments. (Sometimes one can find this style sporran belt with brown leather). My feeling is that the chain belt is a little much for casual wear, but as that is what is most commonly offered by Highland dress suppliers, this is what you most often see. Another criticism of the chain belt is that it tends to, over time and with heavy use, wear raw spots in the cloth of the kilt at either hip. Though I don’t think this is a big concern for someone who only wears the kilt once or twice a year, I have seen kilts that get heavy use (such as those worn in pipe bands) that do show this damage. For the above reasons I advocate wearing an all-leather sporran belt. These are simply narrow leather belts, usually about ¾” wide, in black or brown to match your sporran.

An alternate method of wearing your sporran is to suspend it from your kilt belt from one of the variety of slings or loops that many outfitters offer. This method is recommended especially for men of girth who might otherwise have an issue with the sporran slipping down beneath their belly and causing the front of the kilt to not hang properly.

Notice that I have not included a kilt belt among the essentials needed to wear with the kilt. While it is the norm to wear a belt with your kilt, it is not necessary. The belt is not what keeps the kilt up – a properly fitted kilt should stay up on its own. And many people, myself included, regularly forgo the kilt belt for casual day wear. But the belt does add a bit of completion to the look of the outfit, so wear one if you like. For casual wear, however, avoid the standard black belt with nickel-plated rectangular buckle. This is more suited for more formal events. I recommend a leather belt (between 2” and 3” wide), black or brown to match your sporran, with an open buckle.

The only other item that I would deem necessary to wear with your kilt are hose. While in some very casual venues during summer months, one may be justified in wearing sandals with the kilt, normally kilt hose will be in order. Even the rather contemporary style of “pushed down” socks with boots utilizes long kilt hose in the look. Select a color that will tone well with your tartan. I typically suggest getting at least two pair, a light and dark color, to give some variety to your wardrobe. This is the least expensive part of the outfit, so splurge a bit.

Lastly, garter flashes will be needed to keep the hose up. Again, select a color to tone well with your kilt. Think about the design of the tartan, and how you might incorporate this. For instance, if your tartan has a green field with a narrow red line, then green hose with red flashes will pick up on this very well.

And that is it! You more than likely have shirts and shoes in your wardrobe already that will work well with your kilt. All the other various accoutrements are purely optional. Kilt pins, bonnets, sgians dubh, cap badges, and the like may all add to the outfit, but none of them are essential. You can add those later on. And remember, one of the widely overlooked benefits of wearing the kilt is that family and friends have ample gift ideas for your birthday and other holidays. The most affordable accessory is one that is gifted!

To summarize, all you truly need to wear with your kilt is a sporran to keep your goodies in, something to hang the sporran from, kilt hose, and garters to keep them from slipping down. If your kilt purchase has you on a budget, these items are all you need to get at first. Just get out there, wear the kilt, and worry about the rest down the road.